The (Mis)Adventures and Musings of a Girl on the Move
Saturday, July 11, 2009
No Agenda in Amsterdam
I was in Amsterdam for approximately eight hours in May 2008 during a very long layover (that I purposefully scheduled so I could see a bit of the city) on my way home from Greece. I knew from that visit that when I came back I wanted to spend a lot of time there, so I rented an apartment for 12 days.
My apartment was in a building that overlooks a canal on Brouwersgracht. It is in the Jordaan area, which is a residential area full of apartment buildings and quaint shops and restaurants. I realized yet again in Amsterdam how important the location of where I am staying is when I am making a judgment call on a city. There were parts of Amsterdam I walked through that I did not like - streets filled with tourists and tacky gift shops and McDonald's. If I had stayed in a hotel on one of those areas, I might not have liked Amsterdam nearly as much. But on my street there was not a tourist (other than me), a tacky gift shop or a McDonald's to be found. On the right of the cobblestone street were apartment buildings and on the left was the canal. At night, the people who lived on the ground floor of the apartment buildings, would open their doors, drag a table and chairs outside and eat along the sidewalk, greeting their neighbors as they passed by.
Though Amsterdam has a good public transportation system, mainly consisting of trams, I never took advantage of it. The weather was perfect while I was there (mid 70s for a high and sunny), so I had no excuse not to walk everywhere. So I walked - sometimes knowing where I was going, sometimes not. I had no agenda in Amsterdam. There was nothing I wanted to tour (I had been to the Anne Frank House in May 2008), nothing in particular I wanted to see or do. It was exactly as I had written in one of the Paris blogs - I just wanted to get the feel for living in that city. Probably the best way for me to have gotten a feel for living in Amsterdam would have been to rent a bike. I have never seen so many bikes in my life. There are not car parking garages - there are bike parking garages. But the traffic in Amsterdam was crazy - the cars, the buses, the tram, the bikes, the pedestrians - and I knew if I tried it the ending would not be favorable for me, so I didn't.
The shopping in Amsterdam is the best I've found in Europe, which surprised me after being in cities like London and Paris. I spent time wandering through the De Negen Straatjes, or Nine Streets, area, which is just that - nine streets full of unique boutiques - mostly clothing (some new, some vintage), jewelry, books, gifts, wine. I also went to the Noordermarkt flea market, which was fun (though this is where London has the edge - Notting Hill's flea market was awesome and the best I've seen), and I bought a dress for 7.50 Euros (about $11). I window shopped on P.C. Hooftstraat, Amsterdam's designer boutique street (Chanel, Louis Vuitton, etc.), thus why I used the term "window shopped." A few streets over, though, I then stumbled upon a shoe store filled with last season's designer shoes marked between 50 and 75% off. Unfortunately the pair of Yves Saint Laurent heels I was on the lookout for (they had several YSL styles) were nowhere to be found, which is probably a good thing because they would have been well beyond my daily budget. I also visited the floating flower market, which is situated on one of the canals. While there were some tulips (they would have bloomed a couple of months ago), there were plenty of bulbs to be bought as well as Cannabis in a Can, as you can see pictured below.
My days were spent simply walking along the canals, stopping at a bench to rest and watch the boats move through the water, or sitting at an outdoor cafe beside the canal drinking tea and eating a croissant (I thought I had kicked that habit in Paris but no such luck) or wandering through one of Amsterdam's many parks like Vondelpark. It was quiet and peaceful and exactly what I had envisioned when I was planning the Amsterdam portion of my trip.
On Thursday morning my dad arrived in Amsterdam, and I took the train from the city to the airport to pick him up. He had decided to join me in Amsterdam for four days before traveling by himself to London, north to his old Air Force base, then to Glasgow, over to Belfast (to visit the family I visited) and south to Dublin before heading home today. In Amsterdam, my dad stayed at the Hotel Pulitzer, where the movie Ocean's 12 was filmed. The hotel was in a great location, overlooking a canal and only about a 10 minute walk from my apartment. We spent the day on Thursday just walking around near the hotel so he could get a feel for the city. Like me, he couldn't get over the amount of bikes.
On Friday morning, Dad and I visited the Anne Frank House. We bought online tickets that allowed us to go to the front of the line, which turned out to be a great idea considering the length of the line when we arrived. The rooms where Anne Frank's family lived are bare - her father, Otto Frank, requesting that they not be furnished as they had been. Instead, many of the walls are filled with her words, and they are powerful. There are videos of the two women who helped to hide the Frank family, describing Anne, the family, their experience. That afternoon, we took a one-hour canal ride just to get a feel for the city, and the boat captain was a great tour guide.
That night we had 7:30 dinner reservations at Marius, a small restaurant that had received a great review from the New York Times. The entire restaurant was run by a staff of three - the chef/owner, the sous chef and the server - which I found to be really impressive considering the quality of the service.
On Saturday, my dad and I went to the Van Gogh Museum and the Rijksmuseum. Both of us preferred the Van Gogh, so we spent much more time there than at the Rijksmuseum. We also walked through the back of Vondelpark before going back to the hotel. I had concert tickets to see Lenny Kravitz at an outdoor amphitheatre at Westerpark that night, and my dad was happy to have a quiet night in to rest before leaving for London the next day.
The Lenny Kravitz concert started at 8 pm, so I arrived at Westerpark about 7 pm. It was packed, and I didn't hear any American voices. Some people were sitting down, some were standing, and I found a place among the standing part of the crowd. I have no idea what the opening act was, but they were good, and Lenny Kravitz took the stage at 9 pm. He is an amazing performer - very interactive with the crowd, played all the songs I wanted to hear except for one, and even gave a brief MJ tribute with the crowd singing along to "Billie Jean".